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When curating a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred venues. Yet, situated near the top among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This small Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. The accolade has left the family completely surprised.

“I am completely shocked,” says a family member, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that led to their modest place earning such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has kept much of its former character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the cuisine, and this eatery definitely excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent quality.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at many times that price.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of excess, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this culinary achievement.